What is the value of the joint watches

At the end of last year, Patek Philippe and Tiffany's double-standard 5711 auction became a bomb-level industry topic for a while. In the first half of this year, Swatch co-branded Omega's MoonSwatch, which is an opportunity for everyone to get close to this dual-standard co-branded watch, which also caused a sensational effect of mad rush for the whole world.

A Swatch with a plant ceramic quartz movement was fired to more than 10 times its own price because of the blessing of the Omega Moonwatch. The value of the double-standard joint watch, is it the standard or the watch? You must be able to give an answer. However, whether it is a new watch or an antique watch, can the value of the double-standard joint increase? Not really. When all the heat returns to the rational and realistic market, the truth will emerge.

Earlier this month, Zenith, together with independent watchmaker and restorer KARI VOUTILAINEN, and the watch department of Phillips Auctions, presented 10 limited edition CALIBRE 135 OBSERVATOIRE watches. It's an opportunity for three joint names.

The collaboration was conceived by Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Ghotbi of the watch department of Phillips Auctioneers, with Zenith supplying 10 competition editions of the famous CALIBRE 135 movement of the 1950s, and by independent watchmaker and restorer KARI VOUTILAINEN These movements were delicately refinished and then housed in Zenith’s platinum cases, modeled after the classic CALIBRE 135 at the time, and sold exclusively by Phillips. Yes, this is not a watch that we can buy in the ordinary market.

Looking at the back of this exquisite watch, KARI VOUTILAINEN's modification to the movement not only retains the aesthetic style of the original movement in the 1950s, but also pays attention to details. The cooperation of the three joint names is believed to have become a big attraction of the watch back of this watch.

In addition to the aforementioned co-branding within the industry, there are many co-branding between watch brands and other cross-border brands. This kind of cooperation can enable brands to influence each other in different fields. Recently, many such cooperation works have appeared.

Breitling × Triumph Motorcycle

Panerai × Brass Yachting

H. Moser & Cie.×UNDEFEATED

IWC × Mercedes-Benz F1 Team

TAG Heuer × Porsche

Actually, I want to talk about antique double-standard watches. The so-called double logo in the watch collection industry is not exactly the same concept as the double logo of the above joint cooperation. Typically, such antique watches have appeared almost throughout the last century. At that time, Wang was not a king, nor did he have his own specialty store and electronic marketing network. Therefore, they need to rely on strong retail distributors to sell their products. And these powerful retail distributors come from all over the world. That's why the brand's logo appears on the dial at the same time as the retailer's name. Today, except for individual top brands, it is difficult to see other brands. But at the time, it was pretty normal. It's worth talking about in detail.

Tiffany

When it comes to double-standard watches, the three major jewelry brands Cartier, Bulgari and Tiffany are the inescapable theme. These three brands both intersect and have their own achievements. And each has their own playstyle. Each brand needs to be talked about individually.

As a well-known American jewelry brand, Tiffany plays a pivotal role in the process of opening up the American market for Swiss mechanical watches. Their cooperation with Patek Philippe started in 1851, and it has been 171 years since then, and it is still as friendly as ever. But if you think Tiffany only sells Patek Philippe, you are wrong. At that time, important watch brands and Tiffany had a good cooperative relationship. So in the last century you can see all kinds of watches with the Tiffany logo. At this time, Tiffany is like a window, welcoming many Swiss watch brands, and at the same time using its century-old reputation in the United States to bless the quality of these newly arrived Swiss watch brands. Is a very good dealer.

However, as a well-known brand, Tiffany’s performance in the field of watchmaking is very general, even not as good as Chanel Hermes and other fashion brands. In 2007, Tiffany Watches and Swatch Group reached a 20-year strategic cooperation agreement, but the agreement was only carried out for 5 years, and the two conveniences broke up. There has been no optimistic progress so far. Whether this performance will improve after joining LVMH, we can wait and see.

Cartier

Unlike the other two brands, Cartier is the most comprehensive among the three brands in the field of watchmaking. Product line, technology, sales, reputation, and history. There is no need to discuss here. But did you know that in addition to selling its own watches, Cartier, like Tiffany, once served as a dealer and sold watches of other brands. Therefore, double-standard watches with the Cartier logo often appear in auctions. Of course, it also includes Patek Philippe, and collectors have given the Patek Philippe sold by Cartier a proper name, called PATEKCartier.

Bulgari

Compared to being a dealer, Bulgari is not as diverse in Italy as Tiffany is in the United States. Compared with being a watchmaker, Bulgari has a long history and rich product line without Cartier. But Bulgari has a different approach. In the middle of the last century, Bulgari would cooperate with some top Swiss brands, such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, etc., to launch joint watches.

Before joining LVMH, Bulgari acquired two independent watchmaking brands, Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth. Subsequently, the Bulgari joint models of these two brands were launched. At that time, Bulgari said that these two brands, as Bulgari's high-end watchmaking product line, will continue to maintain their independent brand personality, so we saw the logos of the two brands and Bulgari appear on the dial at the same time. But this move lasted only two years. After joining LVMH, the form of joint name has not appeared again. The most important OCTO series in the Bulgari men's watch product line today originated from the later works of Gerald Genta.

In addition to co-branding with jewelry brands and dealers, have you ever thought about two Swiss watch brands appearing on one watch at the same time? In fact, this situation has occurred from the last century to today, but the reasons are not the same.

A typical example is the decade-long partnership between H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F. These two brands can be said to be sympathetic. They both belong to high-end and niche watch brands, and they have some overlapping customer groups. They not only compete in the market, but also share experience with each other. Each launch of a limited edition of 15 pieces has been enthusiastically sought after in the market.

In the last century, there have also been cases where two brand names appeared on the same dial at the same time. This often depends on market development, brand mergers and other circumstances. So you will see the following situation.

Regardless of Rolex or Patek Philippe, most of the double-standard watches that appear in the auction market are from some well-known dealers. They have used the reputation they have built over the years to introduce famous watch brands to the world for more than a century, worthy of being printed on the dial.

With the development of the brand, the world-class brand has more and more voice, and some brands no longer rely on the dealer network.