To appreciate a watch, you must first know how to appreciate the movement

Watches are beautiful, both on the outside and on the inside. For this, many watch fans should not deny it. As for which part of the watch can impress people the most, I believe that the benevolent sees the difference and the wise see the wisdom. However, according to the author's humble opinion, the movement must be the most beautiful, and the movement can move people the most. The movement can be said to be the soul of a watch. Through the movements of the following big-name watches, let's take a look at the beauty of the movement of the watch and the beauty of the soul of the watch.

Omega

The movements of Omega watches are more common with 2500 and 8500, of which 8500 is the most classic. It is the Omega brand’s own movement, known for its relatively strong anti-magnetic properties. Popular models such as hippocampus and butterfly.

The Co-Axial escapement technology of the 8500 movement effectively reduces the friction and energy consumption between the components of the escapement system, which can maintain the accuracy and stability of the movement for a long time. At the same time, the free-spring balance wheel can maintain the accuracy and stability of the movement after long-term use. This movement is equipped with an automatic winding device, with a brass and tungsten bimetallic oscillating weight, which can be used for bidirectional winding, which effectively reduces the winding time. In addition, it is particularly worth mentioning that the plywood and oscillator are decorated with a unique Arabic-style Côtes de Genève.

Rolex

The most classic movement of Rolex watches is the 3135 three-hand movement, which is widely used in classic watches such as Submariner and Datejust. However, we generally do not see the movement of Rolex watches, because unlike many big-name back-through designs, almost all Rolex watches are designed with a dense bottom.

3135 movement diameter 28.5 mm, thickness 6 mm, 28,800 swings per hour, 31 rubies, 50-hour power reserve, instantaneous calendar, four-arm Glucydur alloy balance, 4 weights, 2 of which are adjustable , Breguet hairspring, kif shock absorber. Today, the balance spring of the 3135 movement has all adopted the PARACHROM hairspring, which is made of a kind of niobium, zirconium and oxygen alloy unique to Rolex. The hairspring is not easily disturbed by magnetic fields, maintains a stable state under temperature changes, and is 10 times more resistant to shocks than conventional hairsprings. It can be seen that the stability of the movement comes from the advanced technology. Obviously, because the movement is generally invisible, Rolex's movement lacks effort in polishing and finishing.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre has always been known for its own movements, and has even supplied movements for top brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In order to ensure the quality of the watch, especially the quality of the movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a Master Controle 1000 Hours test standard. Jaeger-LeCoultre will conduct simulated dynamic tests on watches in the laboratory, and the technical standards are stricter than those of the observatory. The case backs of the watches that have passed the test are engraved with corresponding marks.

Among Jaeger-LeCoultre watches, the 899 movement and the 925 movement are more common, one is a large three-hand movement with a date display, and the other is a movement with a moon phase function, because these two types Watches have been selling better. Moreover, these watches are almost all back-through models, so watch fans can easily see their beauty, especially the fish scale pattern on the plywood and the automatic rotor are very beautifully polished. In addition, in order to make the watch look more delicate and beautiful, Jaeger-LeCoultre has also invented two unique technologies, namely Snow Setting and Rock Setting.

Glashütte Original

Glashütte's original movement is also very beautiful, and compared to the Swiss movement, the design style is more unique, because it has a strong German blood, such as the gooseneck fine-tuning device on the movement, 3/4 splint, gold sleeve, etc. plan the details. It is particularly striking that Glashütte's original and unique double gooseneck fine-tuning device, in order to let us see its beauty at a glance, some models have a hollow design on the dial.

For example, this Glashütte original eccentric series 1-91-02-02-02-30 watch is equipped with 91-02 movement. Compared with the previous generation of 66-06 movement, the biggest change is that Upgraded from a manual winding movement to an automatic winding movement. Obviously, this watch concentrates all the unique features of the German watch (gooseneck fine-tuning device, 3/4 splint, gold sleeve) on the dial as much as possible, especially the double gooseneck fine-tuning located at the bottom right of the dial, This is the biggest highlight of this watch. The texture of the double gooseneck fine-tuning splint is hand-engraved, the device on one side is used to adjust the movement speed, and the other side is used to adjust the position of the pallet fork.

Patek Philippe

As the watch king who dominates the watch world today, especially in the auction market, Patek Philippe has always been the focus of many people's attention. Perhaps many people do not know that today we have become commonplace, allowing us to see the back design of the beauty of the movement. In fact, it was first invented by Patek Philippe. Taking the initiative to show the movement to everyone is obviously full of confidence in the beauty of the movement, which is of course a good way to make the watch more ornamental and artistic.

Patek Philippe has developed to this day, and it can be said that almost every watch of it is a handicraft. Even some stainless steel watches that are incapable of appearance in terms of appearance, the movement is also transparent for everyone to appreciate, such as the popular Nautilus watch.

Patek Philippe's mainstream movements currently mainly include 240 automatic winding movement, 324 automatic winding movement, 215 manual winding movement, CH28 automatic chronograph movement, and CH29 manual chronograph movement. Among them, the 240 movement is a "Pearl Tuo" automatic winding movement, and it is also one of the few pearl Tuo movements in the watch world. One of the unique features of the "Pearl Tuo" design is that although it is an automatic movement, the movement is very thin, for example, the thickness is only 2.53 mm, which is even thinner than the manual 215 movement. Caliber 3135 is 6mm thick.