Everything You Need to Know about Watch Bezels

What Is A Bezel On A Watch?

In addition to its decorative role, the bezel also plays an important role in many watches, providing a variety of functions for the watch.

Diving bezel

The diving bezel equipped with professional diving watches is mainly for safety reasons, to remind divers the safe time of consuming oxygen cylinders underwater, usually 15. The method of use is to align the zero scale at 12 o'clock with the current minute hand after rotating the bezel, and then the time the minute passes on the diving bezel is the safety time that reminds divers to pay attention. Therefore, the first 15 minutes (and also the first 20 minutes) of a diving watch will be highlighted with a special color scheme, and the scale interval will be more eye-catching. The reason why the diving bezel must be unidirectional and only rotatable counterclockwise is to prevent the diver from misjudging the safety time due to misoperation under water, because only unidirectional rotation means that the diving watch can only be shortened but not extended. safe time shown above.

GMT dual time

The dual time function of the bezel is very easy to understand. Generally, a 24-hour outer ring is used. With a central coaxial pointer, the time in the second time zone can be easily read. In recent years, a very popular practice is to design the 24-hour outer ring in two colors, which is not only beautiful but also has a day and night display function. In addition, since the 24-hour outer ring can generally be rotated (bidirectional), a third time zone can also be set, but it is cumbersome to apply and is not recommended.

Chronograph Tachymeter

One of the most common additional functions in chronographs, generally the outer ring with the speed measurement function will be marked with TACHMETRE, and the numbers are not proportionally decreasing from large to small. The method of speed measurement is to assume that the distance between A and B is 1 km. When the measured object passes point A, start the stopwatch and stop timing when it reaches point B. At this time, the number displayed by the pointer pointing to the speed measuring circle is the average of the 1 km. speed.

Pulse meter

In the past, the pulsometer function was commonly found in "doctor's watches" specially designed for doctors. Now, as the practicality of fine watchmaking is gradually being replaced by decoration, this function has also faded out of the historical stage. The usage of the pulse meter is somewhat similar to that of the tachymeter, and both need to be implemented with the chronograph function. The specific method of use is to start the timer, and then start to measure the pulse. When the timer reaches 30 or other set pulse bases, stop the timer. At this time, the outer ring of the pulse meter indicates the heart rate per minute. It is worth mentioning that the GRADUÉ POUR 30 PULSATIONS on the outer ring is based on 30 pulse beats.

Compass

Watches with a compass function are relatively rare, and the words ESWN will be displayed on the four directions of the bezel at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock and 12 o’clock, representing four directions. The use of the compass is very simple. Divide the current time by two (24-hour system), and then use the time scale corresponding to this number to align the sun. At this time, the ESWN on the bezel indicates the correct orientation, that is, up, north, down South left west right east.

The materials of the bezel show a diversified trend, each with its own advantages and beauty.

Ceramics

In 2005, Rolex launched the color ceramic bezel Cerachrom to officially open a new era of bezel materials. Now ceramic bezels have almost become standard in advanced watchmaking, especially in diving watches, and even entry-level products have gradually begun to be equipped with ceramic bezels on a large scale. Hard, scratch-resistant, lustrous and not easy to fade, etc. are the advantages of the ceramic bezel, and the different color matching is in response to today's color watch trend. In addition to the single-color ceramic bezel, the two-color ceramic bezel based on this is more difficult and more advanced.

Carbon fiber

As a new high-tech material, the use of carbon fiber in advanced watchmaking is nothing new. The advantages of the carbon fiber bezel are the same as the material itself. It is light, wear-resistant, high-temperature resistant, and corrosion-resistant. It can also create a very advanced texture visually. The only pity is that because of the characteristics of carbon fiber itself, it is difficult to make a big breakthrough in color, so the carbon fiber bezel cannot be used in watches in a large area.

Stainless steel

Traditional metal is still the most widely used material for bezels. The unique texture of metal combined with mature technology, coupled with the advantages of being easier to shape, make metal bezels the mainstream forever.

The metal material is subdivided into two subdivisions, and the stainless steel has a very high level in terms of hardness and resistance, and the process technology is more mature, which can realize various shapes and designs.

The advantages and disadvantages of the aluminum bezel are very obvious. It is light and beautiful, but not hard enough and easy to scratch. Aluminum bezels have now been replaced by ceramics, but have become a niche bezel material.

Titanium

The titanium bezel can be said to combine the advantages of both stainless steel and aluminum, but compared with stainless steel, titanium is more difficult to shape and polish, and is more suitable for use in high-end products and series.

Precious metal

There is not much to say about precious metals such as K gold bezels, and the words "good-looking" and "high-end" can basically sum up everything.

The different techniques used in the time scale of the bezel are also the charm of advanced watchmaking.

Transfer

A very common time scale method, the advantage is that the process is simple, you can print whatever you want, but it is easy to wear and tear, and it will fade over time, so you should pay more attention to daily use.

Trench filling

This method can make the entire time scale scale have a deep three-dimensional effect, which is very delicate, but it will inevitably have the risk of hiding dirt after using it for a long time, so it can be cleaned regularly.

Enamel filling

Very advanced time scale method, the advantages of enamel are self-evident, the color is long-lasting and not easy to fade, but because of the characteristics of enamel itself, the overall color gloss of the time scale scale will be slightly darker.

Relief

The way of embossing and grooving is just the opposite, adding an upward three-dimensional sense to the entire bezel, but because the hour-marker scale is raised, it also increases the risk of accidental bumping accordingly.