Do you know the special materials of Panerai watches?
From the innovative application of the pioneering materials Radiomir and Luminor luminous materials, to the birth of the patented crown bridge protection device, in the history of Panerai’s watchmaking, they represent the most recognizable iconic design elements and material fields. The continuous research and development and exploration of the two are indispensable, and they also reflect the breakthrough and leap forward in Panerai's technology and aesthetics.
As a material master in the watch field, Panerai is a mature application of various materials, and how to lead the trend of materials. I will introduce some special materials that Panerai is proud of.
Titanium
Millemetri Titanium Prototype
First of all, let's look at Panerai's selection of titanium metal. Titanium is very suitable for watches, especially diving watches, because of its excellent corrosion resistance and lightness. In order to meet the strict requirements of the Italian Navy, Panerai not only experimented with titanium metal as early as the 1980s, but also launched a titanium prototype watch called Millemetri. In modern watchmaking, this technology is also used and integrated into advanced technology.
Panerai Luminor Luminor series two time watch PAM01279
In the early use of titanium metal, Panerai especially liked to use the matte process for decoration, because the color and brightness of titanium metal itself are very suitable for matte finishes, but because of its characteristics, it is very difficult to do matte or polishing process. In recent years, Panerai has also used a sandblasted finish on titanium, just like the sandblasted case of this PAM01279 is delicate and textured, and the combination with the carbon fiber bezel also brings a visual contrast to the watch. Effect.
Titanium case made with Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology
Now, titanium metal has become a little normal in the watch field because of the maturity of technology. Panerai is not satisfied with ordinary titanium metal, but has applied direct metal laser sintering (DMLS) technology, we can Understand it as a futuristic 3D printing technology. It directly sinters titanium metal powder into a thin layer with a thickness of only 0.02 mm through high-power fiber laser, and then stacks it layer by layer to make the final metal case. The structure can also create a hollow effect, making the titanium case lighter, without compromising its water resistance, robustness, or resistance to the tensile or torsional forces that the case might be subjected to. From the physical appearance of PAM00768, there is no obvious difference in color and lustre from ordinary titanium, and it also has a sandblasted finish, but it is also combined with a black Carbotech™ carbon fiber bezel, but the titanium skeleton movement gives the watch a skeletal look, and The green element embellishment, coupled with the rotating patented tourbillon, makes the watch quite a mechanical sci-fi aesthetic of steampunk.
Ceramics
5218-203/A Luminor Marina watch made with PVD technology
The reason why Panerai focuses on ceramics is actually because it is a blackened case. Panerai is one of the first brands in the watch field to make black cases. His black case The style was also launched in the mid-1990s, but even if it was very popular, the effect was not ideal because of the use of stainless steel and PVD coating technology. We are also familiar with PVD coating. After a long time, because the hardness of the inner and outer layers is different, it will fall off due to wear or bumps. Therefore, the production of the black case has been stopped for a long time. The black case was also rejected because the PVD coating technology with sufficient quality and scratch resistance was not found. Until 2007, Panerai joined Richemont's 10th anniversary event. At that time, the president of Panerai wore a ceramic prototype watch and introduced that ceramic is the best solution for creating black watches because it is hard enough. , Anti-scratch, good enough.
Panerai Radiomir watch PAM00292
The representative work of Panerai ceramic watch is this Radiomir Black Seal PAM00292. Its ceramic production process uses high pressure to inject powdery raw materials into the mold and heat it at the same time to finalize the shape. The picture above is PAM00292J. The special version with the J prefix of 292 is also the earliest version. It is limited to 1,000 pieces. It is different from the ordinary version.
Panerai Radiomir PAM00339
Not only zirconia ceramics, Panerai also dabbles in aluminum ceramics. Panerai's patented composite material, Panerai Composite, was produced by Panerai's use of electrochemical processes to ceramicize aluminum. This PAM00339 was also a popular model back then, and it was hard to find a watch. I have talked to you, and now there are two research and development directions for ceramics in the watch field. One is colorful, and the other is to solve the problem of hardness and brittleness that comes with ceramics. Then this 339 was used as early as ten years ago. The tan-colored ceramic shell with matte texture interprets different ceramic colors.
Bronze
Jason Statham wears the Panerai Submersible bronze watch PAM00382 in The Expendables 2
If the blackened case is just Panerai's participation in the fashion direction of watches, then Panerai's bronze material is completely trend-setting. The appearance of the Panerai bronze watch has made the watch world realize that the original bronze's retro texture, as well as its special oxidation, that is, patina, can still be played like this.
Bronze material is very playable. In order to make the bronze effect of the watch heavier, some people have tried soaking methods such as seawater, salt water, ammonia water, egg white, etc., and the restoration can also be achieved by bronze substances. The reaction is used to refresh the watch, like using ketchup to remove the oxide layer. Of course, we still don’t recommend the above method. After time passes, it depends on your wearing habits. Naturally oxidized bronze watches are still the most interesting.
Carbon fiber
Panerai's mature application of carbon fiber is quite famous in the watch field. His carbon fiber material is called Carbotech™ carbon fiber, which has excellent performance in resisting external shocks and corrosion resistance. Of course, it also has all carbon fibers. of lightness. The production process is made of alternately arranged carbon fiber sheets, adding high-tech polymer PEEK (polyetheretherketone), and compressing it under high pressure under high temperature.
Panerai Luminor Luminor series LAB-ID™ watch PAM00700
In terms of visual effects, Carbotech™ carbon fiber is also very different, with its own matte black appearance, but because of the rich material characteristics, it will be different from other brands of carbon fiber after cutting, carbon cloth woven effect or forged carbon mottled effect. It exhibits a distinctive texture similar to tree rings. The representative work of the brand's carbon fiber is this one, LAB-ID™ PAM00700 created by Panerai's creative workshop, this 50-piece limited special edition, it can be said that Panerai fully utilizes the superior characteristics of carbon composite materials. Numerous innovative materials have also been incorporated into the core, making it unnecessary to add lubricants for at least fifty years.
BMG-TECH™ Metallic Glass
Panerai Submersible PAM00692
Panerai also has an innovative material that left a deep impression on me, that is, PAM00692 released at the Geneva Watch Fair in 2019. Its case material is called BMG-TECH™ metallic glass. At that time, when I saw the metallic glass, it was actually It's a bit confusing, because I have never seen this kind of material. It's not like laser sintering is basically titanium, and Carbotech™ is carbon fiber. You just said that glass and metal are very common, but combining them together, it really doesn't work. too much to know.
Metallic glass, also called amorphous alloy, is a bulk metallic glass with a disordered atomic structure. The key process for making it is instant cooling. The metallic glass is injected under high pressure under ultra-high temperature conditions, and then ultra-rapidly cooled. During processing, because the cooling rate is too fast, the molten alloy liquid has no time to align normally, adjust to the crystal structure, and is suddenly transformed into a disordered solid state. The final material characteristics combine the advantages of metal and glass, high strength, high wear resistance, excellent toughness and lightness, and corrosion resistance is many times stronger than stainless steel, all of which are very suitable for making diving watches.
Goldtech™ Red Gold
Panerai Submersible PAM00974
Nowadays, we can see that all major brands are making rose gold watches. Rose gold or what we call red gold has long been mainstream, and the rose gold materials used by various brands are different because of the different mixing ratios of their metal elements. The resulting final color effect is also different. Panerai launched Goldtech™ Red Gold in 2019.
Its actual tone is rich and full. After the alloy is exclusively formulated by Panerai, the copper content is particularly high, accounting for 24.1%. In addition, 0.4% platinum is added to prevent the metal from oxidizing. Another problem with traditional precious metals is that they are soft and cannot withstand scratches, while Goldtech™ will be stronger and more durable.
Recycled material
Sailing ship Pangaea
In recent years, the concept of environmental protection has prevailed, and the same is true in the field of watches. Various brands basically carry out energy-saving and emission-reduction operations from straps, watch boxes or factory production operations, just like the Sportech™ watch launched by Panerai. Strap with recycled PET resin fabric strap. However, for this material expert, it would like to challenge it again and realize the use of recycled metal to make the case. Since Panerai's recycled metal composition distinguishes a variety of materials, today I will only introduce two more representative ones.
Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Tourbillon Two Time Watch PAM01108
One is the SUBMERSIBLE Mike Horn Tourbillon Two Time Watch, which is made of EcoPangaea™ high-tech environmentally friendly material. This recycled metal is directly taken from the 35-meter drive shaft of Mike Horn's sailboat named Pangaea. and perfected. Panerai's unique patented tourbillon with recycled metal is enough to demonstrate Panerai's investment in high-end complex functional technology and innovative materials.
Panerai Luminor eSTEEL™ watch PAM01356
The other is the eSTEEL™ series. The total weight of this series of watches is 152.4 grams, of which 89 grams are made of environmentally friendly recycled materials, accounting for 58.4% of the total weight of the watch. Like the case and dial are made from a new reconstituted steel alloy. This recycled material is in no way inferior to conventional steel in terms of chemical properties, physical structure and corrosion resistance.
I have introduced as many as seven special materials of Panerai, starting from titanium metal, ceramics, bronze, carbon fiber, BMG-TECH™ metallic glass, Goldtech™ red gold, and finally to recycled materials, you must have seen him Achievements in the field of various materials, starting from titanium metal in the 1980s, we have been involved in the field of diverse materials. Until now, every year, the research and development and experimental work of the creative workshop in the Neuchâtel watch factory are still in the process of Paner. The innovative material case of the sea brings out the old and brings forth the new. The application of various materials also makes Panerai watches unique in performance and aesthetic design.
